December 2005

December 6, 2005

I recently underwent a two-week training program outside of Niamey. It was nice to come together with other Americans and hear how they have been doing. Fortunately, our training coincided with Thanksgiving. There were thirty-one of us at the training site and we were allowed access to the kitchen. A meal was prepared consisting of mash potatoes, candy, yams, corn, green beans, stuffing, gravy, and salad. For dessert there was chocolate cake, banana bread, and cookies. The only thing missing was the turkey, but we substituted chicken for it. 

The two weeks were somewhat helpful, I was hoping to have more language courses in Zarma, but the sessions emphasized French. Some of us had a chance to meet with the minister of education for the primary schools. Unfortunately, the meeting was conducted in French so I did not understand everything. He laid out the 10-year plan to improve the education system in Niger, initiated in 2002. He also spoke about experimental schools-schools in which students are taught in their native language for the first few years before switching to French. The current system has the children learning all subjects in French from day one-although virtually all of them know no French before starting school. The minister is in favor of these schools. He quoted a study that concluded in these schools children learn better in all subjects, including French, by the time primary school ends. The biggest obstacle in converting more schools to this format is the parents. Many of them see French as the official language of the government and of the educated people. Therefore, they view French schools as having more prestige, and thus send their kids there. 

I also had a chance to meet with the youth parliament. The parliament consists of secondary school students chosen to represent their region. They meet twice a year during school breaks in Niamey. They run similar to the regular parliament. Each member has a role on a committee where they formulate lists of demand and action plans. These are then voted on by the whole group and sent to the Nigerien parliament. The resolutions state the position of the youth of Niger and this process allows their opinions to be expressed. All of us who met with the youth parliament were impressed by them. We also come way happy because they had tons of questions for us, signifying a genuine interest in our work and hope for collaboration between our groups. 

I am not sure if I am a better volunteer now than I was two weeks ago, but the training sessions were a nice change of pace and a good forum to exchange ideas. 

December 7, 2005

Training ended and the Franco phone games began. Perfect timing, we were just hanging around Niamey waiting to catch a free ride back to our towns, so we decided to make the most of these two days and catch some of the Olympics for French speaking countries. WE were in awe that the new stadium and two arenas were completed on time, but we were even more amazed of how clean the entire city was. The streets were no longer a trash dump, but were swept every day (many were even repaved!). The buildings and fences looked (and smelt) like a fresh coat of paint had been added. And there were traffic lights!

The morning the events were to start we went to the stadium to inquire about tickets for the evening festivities. No one had any clue what we were talking about and we were sent on a wild goose chase. Most officials mistook us for athletes (we had a good laugh amongst ourselves trying to guess what sport we were supposed to represent). We returned to the stadium, ticket less, for the opening ceremonies and just followed the crowd. We all crawled through a hole in the fence to enter the stadium. Once inside we passed many locked doors before finding an open tunnel to the seating area. As we turned into the tunnel we found ourselves immersed in a crowd. Hundreds of people began pushing forward. Men were jumping up and scaling ten-foot walls on both sides of us. Seeing this, I grew worried we were heading towards a dead end, but we had no choice since we were being pushed forward by the mob. All of a sudden the crowd parted in the middle as a line of men with whips and swords came at us. We were bombarded with people seeking shelter behind us, believing �Anasaras� (white foreigners) would not be hit. Fortunately, the men were not on crowd control and their whips were held at bay as they uneventfully passed by. Through the parted crowd I saw the end of the tunnel with an aisle on either side to pass through to the seats (I have no clue why the men chose to scale the walls when an open path lay 5 feet before them, but being here for five months now I am not the least bit surprised).

We finally found seats (unfortunately they were behind the stage and in the sun). The ceremonies began a little over an hour after the scheduled time. Each country marched in behind their flag (it was fun to guess who�s who especially when they throw curveballs like Romania in). Many of the African nations and Vietnam wore traditional outfits. The congregation from Tchad performed a dance routine and Niger came in with traditional drummers and dancers. I missed all of the speeches because the sound system was not too effective (though since they were in French I probably would have missed them even if I did hear them). This part of the ceremony dragged on, since everyone here enjoys to hear their own voice. 

Finally the dancers came on stage. We moved to get a better view and it was well worth it. They sang mostly in Zarma, but a little in Hausa and Tamachec (other native languages). They danced and performed the history of each major ethnic group in Niger. At the end fireworks were set off. Initially fear resounded through out the Nigeriens bodies. Most had never witnessed fireworks before and were understandably startled by the noise. It brought some apprehension to us too as many scared Nigeriens burst from their place we feared we might be trampled. However, Their nerves were quickly calmed and they stopped to enjoy the show. 

December 8, 2005

Today was my only full day in Niamey. Although I wanted to see as much of the Franco phone games as possible, I needed to get work done in the morning. This was my soul sale opportunity to surf the Internet, print from computer, and make photocopies. I will not have access again for at least tow months (possibly until March) so I needed to make the most of it. 

In the afternoon I had a choice to watch traditional dancing or football. For the interest of this journal I should have chosen the former, but it is difficulty for me to turn down sports, so I headed to the old stadium to watch Cameroon take on Cote d�ivoire. Despite the new stadium, all of the football games were played in the old one near the center of town, which resembled a high school football field (I was told track and field needed to use the new stadium, featuring the only tack in the country although there was no event scheduled today). All of the countries represented sent their youths teams (under 21) so I didn�t get to see any of the French or West African stars. Cote d�ivoire dominated the contest, which ended uneventfully at nil-nil. (Cote d�ivoire eventually won the tournament, while Cameron knocked out Niger in the playoffs before losing in the semifinals).

In the evening a few of us wanted to see the Judo finals. We got there by seven (the scheduled start time). However, the finals began at six, so we only caught the tail end of the last match. France won the event, which is actually more like wrestling than karate (despite their martial arts uniforms). We were disappointed to miss the excitement, but we were able to walk in without having to pay, so we were not terribly upset. It was a good chance to see the recently constructed �Arena des arts martiale�. We waited for a few minutes to see the medal ceremony, but it appeared we would be waiting for many more so we left. 

We decided to see some basketball at the arena next door. Unfortunately we went out the wrong door and ended up in a gated parking lot. The other arena was in full view and to reach it the proper way would have taken about twenty minutes of back tracking so we decided to hop a fence. We arrived at the entrance thirty seconds later. We entered, passing several locker rooms with teams warming up. I found a door with a window. Looking through I saw that we were at the same level as the court. A gendarme saw us and opened the door. He questioned what we were doing. We responded we were trying to watch the game. He then told us to cross the court and go up some stairs to the seating section. Here we were walking courtside, without tickets, during a major international sporting event. 

We found seats and caught the second half of Belgium-Lebanon. By the time we got there Lebanon was cruising to an easy victory. The next game was between Niger and Romania. Niger had a girl that stood a head taller than every other girl on the court. We thought for sure they would dominate, until we saw them warm up. Niger could not make a shot. As the game started it became apparent they couldn�t play defense either. They lacked the basic fundamental and Romania ran away with the contest. 

Two blowouts, and one missed event, but it was still an entertaining night.

December 15, 2005

After being away for three weeks- speaking English, watching American movies, hanging out with friends, and going to bars-it was tough to come back to my town. I did not learn anything at training that I can use immediately and I felt even less confident in my language since I hadn�t practiced for twenty days. But I was gone too long and it was time to go back.

I arrived to find my house covered in dust. The wind and sand kept up their work even though I was on vacation. It took a while but I fixed things up around the house. I swept every room even the two I don�t use. I even got my bedroom light and shower drain back working properly.

Feeling good about my house I left for work Monday morning. I quickly learned the secondary school inspection was up and running-staff was in place and in a new building. Luckily it is located next to the primary inspection so I do not need to travel too far to see everyone.

 
The following day I went to the radio station and created a schedule for when I will do my show. On Wednesday I went to the polytechnical school to tell then I was back. They showed me a new computer classroom with many outlets for the plugs. I promised to return the next day to help the students, which I did. Unfortunately, I could not get the computers working except for one. Two others almost worked but had no functioning keyboard (they required a keyboard with a larger plug). So after all of the effort, construction, and moving there is still only one functional computer. However, only three students were there so it was very manageable. They learned how to click and hold the mouse button to highlight sections in MS Word. They get frustrated, as the mouse is not the easiest of tools for first time users. By and by I think they will become proficient.

I got by this week by relying heavily on my best friend. I went to his house each day to eat, watch movies, play cards, and just chat. In other words, to do exactly what I would be doing if I were anywhere else in this world. It definitely helps to have a good friend to stay sane and keep loneliness away. 

December 17, 2005

The Franco phone games ended today. I watched the closing ceremonies on television. They were filled with traditional dancing. Member of the Tourag ethnic group came in on camelback performing tricks. They had the camels walk on their knees. One man poured tea into a glass on the ground from atop a camel without it spilling. There were also many speeches. In announcing Beirut as the site for the next games, they accidentally hung the Lebanese flag upside down. Since the flag features a tree it was pretty apparent. 

There were definitely problems with the games. Crowd control was poor. There was no one directing people where to go and many times large groups were stopped by a locked door or closed gate. Security was hesitant to question foreigners, many of which wonder aimlessly without being stopped. We crossed the court of a basketball game. My friends boarded a bus and ended up inside the athletes� village! There was no information readily available, schedules were changed and usually not posted, and the guards were not well informed. Despite ample bathrooms in the newer stadium, men were peeing in the rows during the opening ceremonies. 

The games were a success though. They country finally received some favorable media attention. Niamey was clean up, infrastructure upgraded, and revenue brought in. The new stadium and two arenas should be utilized for years to come. Transportation was improved with the repaving of roads and the addition of traffic lights. The events focused attention on groups not often in the spotlight-youth soccer, girl�s basketball, traditional dancers, and lesser-viewed sports such as Judo, ping-pong, and wrestling. 

The games proved to be a good source of entertainment and pride for the Nigeriens. I wish I could have spent more than two days at them. 

December 23, 2005

�Kina Kina Ay goga dondon� Zarma for �little by little I am learning�. And feeling more comfortable in what I am doing. I attended a teachers meeting at the polytechnical school. The meeting ran on for an hour and a half in French (people like to talk so meeting always tend to run long in this country). I think I understood most of the first half of the meeting, but I grew tired and zoned out for the second half. It turned out that the part I missed was a discussion on how students have been complaining about poor quality instructors. I�m sure that my extra help sessions with their language barrier were brought up, but I don�t know for sure since I don�t understand French. However, as the students left for winter vacation, I believe that they now have the basic knowledge of MS Word. After break we will begin to delve into MS Excel.

I made my weekly rounds to all of the secondary schools. My visits entail seeing the directors, counselors, and English professors. I greet them and chat for a few moments, practicing my language and allowing them to work on their English. While at one middle school we discussed a project the last volunteer wanted to begin. We decide to create a program to award one student each quarter at each level. We plan on holding a ceremony in March to present certificates to them. I will announce the winners on the radio as well. We are hoping the recognition increases the motivation of all the students.

I also had a productive meeting at the larger middle school. There are two girls there who come from the bush that have a scholarship to cover expenses accrued by not living at home. Their stipend covers two tutors. Working with the school director we arrange to have joint sessions in four subjects for the girls. The director was a little annoyed that I had paid previously the tutors directly. He though that all money paid at his school must go through his hands. I was not happy about this, neither were the teachers but hopefully it all works out.

I began hosting a radio program on a regular basis. With the holidays coming up, my partner will be out of town. We decided to tape two shows in Zarma before he left. The first one turned out pretty well. We explained why we were in Niger and what our organization does. The second one was a little forced and we just read stories with large words. There was also a lot of improvising, which was good for our language improvement. During each program we play four American songs around our talking. We chose Bob Marley (who is immensely popular here), the Red Hot Chili Peppers, Aretha Franklin, and Bobby McPharon (Don�t Worry, Be Happy fame). I am not sure they enjoyed the new songs they were exposed to, but I received many compliments on the show. 

December 24, 2005

I was duped into hosting a wedding. I don�t know if it was because I didn�t quite understand what they were asking or because I was caught off guard, or maybe because I felt guilty since the neighbor who asked me is the same one who I only make an effort to see when I show up at his house for a free dinner. It could have been me wanting to do something nice for someone during the holidays. Whatever the reason I agreed to let them use my concession to host the groom party.

Weddings here are quite different then what I am used to. The ceremony occurs early in the morning. The newly weds then go to their houses without seeing each other. They entertain guest and tradition has it that they cannot refuse anyone. Despite creating an �A list� of invited guest, it seems to always end up being beggars, merchants, and street children looking for handouts and free food.

The bride was from Benin so they ceremony took place there. I sat in on the prayer with all of the men. After words everyone stormed out to head back to my town. My driver tore out of there like a bat out of hell, almost running down an ox cart (despite his hurry he was able to stop for a minute to argue with the cart driver). We raced back to my house where guests were beginning to assemble. Shortly after returning the first meal was served (the cause for the rush back).

The reception had lasted from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Many people, almost all men, passed through my doors. Traffic was heavier during meal times, and the mid afternoon saw relatively few visitors. Upon arriving guests would enter a separate building where the groom laid out on a mattress. After greeting him for a few moments they would exit to either sit and wait for the next meal, play cards in the street, or return home. I must have played three or four hours of cards. Music blasted in the background. Nigeriens are not ones for variety so many songs were repeated over and over and over and over. 

Surprisingly by 6:30 everyone had left and my place was clean. My neighbors decided to test me a little most. They said they have all left, but the groom was to return. He went to see his wife for the first time since they became married. He was supposed to drag her to his house to start their life together. Except he wished to take her to my spare room to spend their wedding night. I got mad. In my broken Zarma and French I told them I was too nice already and that I was not running a hotel. I had to stay firm for a few minutes but they finally backed down and left.

The day was not the disaster it should have been. They paid me for my trouble and also offered to get me a hotel room incase I wished to nap during the day. They held true to their word and only entered my yard (not my house) and they left before they said they would.  

Nigerien weddings are definitely different than ones I am used to. I did not like the idea of the newly weds not sharing the day together. The whole day was also along span to have the reception. I was impressed with the notion that no one can be denied. Although, I cringed each time a beggar or musician came in search of money. Now that it is over I was glad they were there. Though Muslim, this practice fulfills the Christian ideals our weddings do not realize. The groom�s doors are open fully (or my doors in some strange circumstances) and food is given to the bottom rung of the social ladder. The VIP guest list runs in and out, but the beggars stay. They dine on meals they cannot afford. They cannot repay the groom with anything other than their shared presence on this most important day. 

The weddings are grand occasions, just as long as someone else always hosts them. 

December 25, 2005

Christmas Eve. For all previous twenty-five years of my life I have spent the night at my grandmother�s house. For twenty-five years I have seen my grandmother, mother, father, and uncle on this day and I have been with my sister and three cousins for every Christmas Eve they have ever known. This has been the only tradition I have kept-the other 364 days change from year to year, but December 24^th remained constant. IF things went according to plan I would have left in February and taken my first vacation now to keep the tradition alive. But life follows no plans. So here I am in Africa without a trace of snow, trees, or my family. 

Another volunteer came in from the Bush on Christmas Eve. She came to the wedding for an hour or two to help keep me sane. I met up with her in the evening and we went to Christmas Eve mass. There was actually a mass on Christmas day, but I always went on Christmas Eve at home. It was tough making it out to the church at night, since it is well off the main road and there are no lights. We found a moto taxi to take us as long as I explained the directions in Zarma. WE caught a ride back with someone from church, but he could only take one at a time so I waited ten minutes alone in a pitch-black African field. 

Nothing ever starts on time, but the 10:15 start of the 9 p.m. mass surprised me. The music featured all of the same percussion instruments it usually does but was much slower and solemn than normal. Nevertheless, it was a good mass, translated into three languages that ended about midnight. 

I returned home in time to receive a phone call from my family. The phone was passed around and I heard from all twelve people at the dinner. I did not miss the snow they spoke of but I wished I were there. It was comforting to realize we were actually at church hearing the same mass at the same time despite being worlds away. 

Christmas day passed uneventfully. The other volunteer and I ate together, played cards, read, and worked a bit. We separated for dinner and I ended up eating rice from a street vendor, greeting a few friends, and going to sleep early (it is customary to give small gifts to everyone on holidays here, so I handed out dates to everyone). 

The hardest part is over now. If I can make it through Christmas Eve, I can make it all the way.